Last days in Bali

My last days in Bali were wrapped up with trying Bintang beer for the first time and continued exploring. On the last day, I’d planned on visiting the popular Tirta Empul water temple for a water purification ceremony. But when the day arrived, it seemed like it would be crowded and far, so I caught a ride to the smaller, quieter Gunung Kawi temple.

This decision process was common in my trip to Bali—quietly going with the flow and altering the plan if something didn’t fit the moment. The driver and I were some of the only ones at Gunung Kawi early in the morning. I got to enjoy views like these all to myself:

The trip was a much needed reconnect to my spirit and practice. It’s hard not to feel spiritually inspired in Bali—every family has a temple in their backyard and they make offerings to their gods at multiple points throughout the day. Chickens, cats, and dogs roam on dirt and stone streets, and nature is abundantly all around you. Physically, I started moving and feeling good again after taking some time off to rest my back and joints. It was a joy to experience another enlightening and stress-free trip to the magical land of Ubud.

Yoga Workshop Day 5

I really left you hanging in Bali, and I’m sorry for that! I found the whole trip to be perfectly rejuvenating and exactly what I needed. I had been feeling a little lonely from months of solo travel and brand new friendships, but visiting Ubud reminded me of the joys and freedom of traveling on your own. I spent so much quiet time in nature and in the city doing the things that I wanted to. I learned even more about the yoga practice and connected with many friendly faces.

The fifth day of our yoga workshop with Kino was the closing ceremony. As usual, we kicked off with our daily discussion of the yoga sutras. We learned that in all of the 196 yoga sutras the word LOVE is never mentioned. Still, Patanjali hints at it, with references to pranidhana (devotion), maitri (friendliness), and ahimsa (non-harming). The feeling of love is infused into his words, and any act of hatred would be considered an act of self-harm. He recommends that whenever negative thought forms appear, as they inevitably will, the seeds of the opposite thought should be planted.

In the Ashtanga yoga closing mantra, we ask that all beings be happy and free from suffering. Kino had us take it a step further in a seated metta meditation. In metta, we first call attention to ourselves—if I’m not happy and free from suffering, how can I fully wish it for others?—then to the ones we love and feel close to, and finally (the hardest one!) to those we dislike or the people who frustrate us. As spiritual seekers, we liberate ourselves from wishing ill upon others as we do our best to free the rest of humanity.

The closing ceremony was held at the studio and hosted by a Balinese priest. He chanted and blessed us while we lit incense in our traditional flower baskets. Sometimes I roll my eyes at myself for being an American practicing yoga in a studio with American teachers in such a magical foreign country with a rich spiritual history. The traditional closing ceremony was a way to tie it all together and it helped me feel more connected to the local culture at the end of the week.

Expanding Expectations

The last time I came to Ubud I stayed a little outside the center in the most wonderful hotel. This time I wanted to be close to the yoga studio, so I’m in a guest house very close to Ubud market. I was nervous about staying so close to the main street—because it’s really busy and crowded with foot and road traffic—but the house is actually tucked away from the craziness of the center. I’ve been waking up each morning to the sounds of roosters crowing down the street. Then I step out onto the patio to enjoy a breakfast of what has been pancakes every day so far and might continue to be pancakes every day that I’m here.

There is a lot more to Ubud than meets the eye. The obvious place to start is the main road where you can find the market, Ubud Palace, and the Saraswati temple. But if those are your only tastes of the city, you might leave underwhelmed. The magic is out in the rice fields with views of volcanoes and banana trees. And in the little side streets with local people living their regular lives, nearby waterfalls, Indonesian warungs (restaurants), and healthy new-age healing spots.

Simply being in Bali is healing on its own. However, during this visit I’m also opening up to trying some “out-there” healing methods. After the workshop on day one, I stayed for the next class on “Deep Psoas Release Exercises” and spent the hour and a half fatiguing my hip flexors to then allow them to shake uncontrollably in order to release whatever needed to be released in there. It was astonishing to feel how much they would shake and how the shaking would travel through my body—into the back of the legs and all the way up into the abdomen. The teacher was a mystical woman who had a safe and calming energy. When I saw that she was leading a “Breath Work Trauma Release” class the next day, I decided to return… to be continued…

Utopia in Ubud

After Bangkok, I Julia Robertsed my way into Indonesia and found that life in Bali is a life worth living. You're pretty much welcome to do what you want, if what you want is going to the beach or the jungle, hanging out with monkeys or riding a scooter to a waterfall, sitting by the pool, eating tropical fruits and soaking at the spa, or climbing up a volcano, or just doing magnificent yoga all day. If you don't like any of these things, I am not sure what we are going to do if we ever hang out.

The Yoga Barn has one million yoga classes, a delicious cafe, a hotel and a spa, so I stayed there a lot of the time. I also stayed at the pool of the Green Bird Villa hotel where they fed me banana pancakes in the mornings. My friends drove me around on motor bikes to places with tribal drumming and cafes with fire pole slides. I got a two hour massage with flower bath for $13.

Consider this self treated.

And the monkeys... I will tell you more about the monkeys soon.