Road Trip Through Southern Portugal

My birthday is next week and, as we’re planning what to do, I’m reflecting on last year’s birthday trip. I never wrote about it on here, and I want to capture the memories before they fade away with the years…

Last year, we decided to celebrate my 35th by taking a road trip in southern Portugal. Bryan flew in early for work and he planned the beginning of the trip, so when he picked me up at the Lisbon airport, I didn’t know what to expect. We drove about three hours south and, to my surprise and delight, the first stop was absolutely perfect.

Selema

Selema, Portugal is a magical and tiny town, with narrow streets and outstanding restaurants. Our Airbnb was right on the water. It ended up being a great location to visit a few different surf spots. We found a board rental place (Secret Surf Society) and a yoga teacher/massage therapist who gave me a very lovely birthday massage. Our Airbnb hostess owned a couple of restaurants in town, and the closest one made for an excellent seafood birthday dinner. I couldn’t have asked for a more wonderful place to spend a birthday (though we’ll have to try to top it this year!)

Lagos

Our next stop was Lagos (only about 30 minutes from Selema.) Lagos was high on my list, from seeing photos of the beautiful coastline and hearing recommendations from friends. We rented another Airbnb. This one had a pool, but in early April it was too chilly to swim. We wore our wetsuits in the ocean for the whole trip, which was comfortable. We used the rental car to take a day trip to Sagres and to visit the surf spots, but you really don’t need a car in Lagos. In fact, the streets of the town were so narrow, it was challenging to drive. We enjoyed walks from our Airbnb down to try different restaurants. Most of them have limited seating, and we learned we’d better make reservations in advance or stay flexible with our plans.

Ericeira

It was tough to decide where to go next. We would have liked to have spent much more time traveling along the coast. The feeling was so relaxed and there was a lot to see. We saw many people traveling in camper vans with less of an agenda and living out our surf dreams! But due to work and dog obligations, we had about two weeks and were forced to choose our stops accordingly.

We chose to head north of Lisbon next, to Ericeira. I didn’t know much about it before the trip, but I was happy to visit a new place. We found a cute bed and breakfast with a very kind and helpful owner. The scenery was gorgeous and the whole area was very calm, quiet, and relaxing. The restaurants, just like in Lagos, were small but delicious. We had given back our rental surfboards by that point, so we did some hiking nearby and visited the town of Mafra.

Lisbon

Our final stop was Lisbon. I was able to spend a few days before I had to fly back to the states and Bryan would return to London for work. We continued to celebrate my birthday by taking a cooking class, eating unlimited pasteis de nata (Portuguese custard tarts), and making our own charcuterie boards.

When it was time to leave, I was sad to say goodbye to Portugal so soon. It was a sweet trip and I hope to return for longer (maybe we’ll bring the dog next time!) I ordered one more pastel de nata for the road and it was back to the US of A.

Until next time, Portugal…

Our Big Fat Greek Vacation

Crete is an awe-inspiring land of contrasts-- a conflicting mix of old and new. It's hot, but relief comes in lightly on the sea breeze. It's rocky, but those rocks run right down to the soft sandy coast. It's dry as you head inland, yet its edges are surrounded by unforgettable water colored 10+ different shades of blue. It's got local families with naked babies bumped close up against suntanned couples on their romantic getaways. It's a place to relax, and a place to come to life, with nightly rounds of Ouzo and dancers jumping, yelling "Opa!"

It's baklava, and then more baklava... Oh wait, that's not a conflict at all. We barely managed to pull ourselves away from the temptations of our all-inclusive resort to explore nearby Heraklion, but here's what we found, plus a beachy sunset for good measure:

Magic the Dog

When traveling in Europe, Americans often cite the dining out experience as a major difference in cultures. European servers take their time, and allow you to as well. Since most of them don't work for tips to the level that American servers do, they won't hurry to turn your table or even bring the bill until you request it. For westerners this can be, at best, relaxing, and, at worst, anxiety-inducing.

My mom and many of my girlfriends can attest that, by U.S. standards, I'm one who likes to linger. I've left checks unturned and had water glasses refilled long past my welcome. But last week, at a cafe in Luxembourg, when my uncle's friend Mike lights his second post-meal smoke, I feel an impatient tapping in my knee as my hands start to fidget in my lap. Thirty minutes later, as he considers a third, my American eyes roll skyward in disbelief. But grey clouds roll in across the sky threatening sudden rain, so we stay.

I sit under the cafe's tarp, the traces of our shared crepe long gone, and I'm forced to come to terms with my culture. I become frantically aware of my heart beating and my fingers purposelessly grasping at each other under the table. My mind dances in circles away from the conversation, fooling itself into thinking there is somewhere else I need to be.

But in the middle of the third cigar, something changes. A couple settles into the table next to ours with their brand new puppy in tow. His playful confusion and naive curiosity manage to distract me, and most other diners, from my plight. I forget how long we all crowd around, smiling and sharing the spark that only a baby animal can bring. When we leave the cafe, I ask his owner for the dog's name, and she translates for me, "In English it's... Magic". I smile and thank her. As I pet him and say goodbye, I wonder what other magic I've missed in my haste.

If you’re interested in travel around Luxembourg or other European destinations, consider Trainline, Europe’s biggest train and coach app.

Castles, Ranked

I've started to figure out a possible reason why more people don't visit Luxembourg as they hop and skip across Western Europe: It's rainy! It's rained almost every one of the last 30 days. But usually only a little at a time. And let's not forget that Austin has done that to me too (looking at you, May 2015).

So we got a little bit wet as we ventured out for our castle tour, but we found that Luxembourg has many more palaces than we could squeeze into our 3-day trip. Some of them now hold hotels, youth hostels, and restaurants so you might end up near one without trying, and, in an 80 km country, the next one won't be too far away.

4. Château de Mersch

I don't think we would've even visited this very un-castle-like castle had it not been less than a mile down the road from Mike's apartment. It's currently being occupied by administrative offices, doesn't give off many castle vibes, and could easily be driven past if you were out searching for any distinguishing features that castles normally supply. I would have given it a 1 out of 10, but it was saved by the cool dragon statue out front. 2/10

Uncle Rick slaying le Dragon de Mersch

3. Château de Clervaux

We skipped going inside this one, due to cold rain and afternoon sleepiness, but it was indeed very castle-y as it stood out on the hill above town. Its classy white walls in contrast with the lush greenery of the Ardennes forest region were enough to raise my spirits after spending a day in the rain wearing absorbent canvas shoes. As we visited the church next door, we were lucky to take in our first Luxembourgish wedding and hear "Lean on Me" performed in English by the choir. 7/10

2. Palais Grand-Ducal

Our first castle of the trip is home to the Grand Duke of Luxembourg, the guest of honor for Luxembourg's National Holiday/birthday party, which was happening the day we arrived in the city. For us, that meant kebab, crepe, and beer trucks in the main square and a free concert by the Queen Symphony Orchestra (an orchestra that plays songs by Queen, not songs for the royal family). This is a very castle-like castle, and the only one we saw that is fully functioning today. We walked by as guests were leaving the Grand Duke's party, and I am taking off 2 points for us not being invited. 8/10

1. Château de Vianden

Vianden is the type of castle that sneaks up out of the hills and takes your breath away before you wind down hairpin turns into the town below. We were able to go inside and tour the reconstructed bedrooms, ballrooms, and dining areas. There was also an unexpected and slightly out-of-place art exhibit featuring paintings of Albert Einstein, Superman, and other iconic figures in neon blacklight paint. If you can't find what you're looking for in a castle at Vianden, you may want to end your search.  10/10

If you’re interested in travel around Luxembourg or other European destinations, consider Trainline, Europe’s biggest train and coach app.

Lovely Lux

Luxembourg is quite charming. We've nearly drunk and eaten our gracious host, Mike, out of wine and cheese. If the euro declines any further in value, I think we'll buy a castle and stay!

If you’re interested in travel around Luxembourg or other European destinations, consider Trainline, Europe’s biggest train and coach app.

Brexit!

In spite of all the newsworthy excitement going on in the UK right now, our overnight stay in London Gatwick was pretty uneventful. So we Brexited out of there yesterday afternoon and made our way to Luxembourg to enjoy the fromage and bretzels!

The joke was on us though. Had we stayed a few more hours we could be buying Harrod's out of tea and biscuits for 73 cents on the dollar.

Dubrovnik's Walls

It seems to me that Dubrovnik is a city that sucks us into its lengthy history, no matter how hard we try to resist and taint the past with our iPhones, kitschy souvenirs, and loud foreign banter. Maps will do you little good in Old Town, where unexpected winding stairwells sweep you from your predetermined path and lift you up to breathtaking panoramic viewpoints, however opposite they may be from your intended destination.

You’ll be thankful for the towering city walls letting you know that, while you’re not so certain where exactly the “You Are Here” circle might be placed on your map, you’re still well inside of Old Town, and once you find a church or a bell tower you will be on your way.

You can get comfortably lost here, as you search for a wifi hotspot or an air-conditioned bar. Instead you’ll find yourself in someone else’s garden patio or tucked away on a basketball court overlooking the rocky beach. There’s no need to worry—the ocean’s salty breezes will be there to reassure you that this city has withstood much more than teeming crowds of tourists and hungry merchants pushing their wares. The friendly faces and upward-looking awe of everyone around you remind us visitors that it’s not all buying, selling, photographing, or hunting for the right glass-bottom boat to take you to the next offshore island.

It’s Dubrovnik’s subtle charm—the ladders on the sides of shoreline rocks, perfectly placed for an impromptu swim; the climbing staircases and dead-end paths that lead to abandoned archways or hidden coves, seemingly designed for lovers sneaking away from the watchful eyes of passersby; the sneaky cats that sulk in shade and graze the smaller side streets—that we’ve really come to see.

And in every darkened corner or concealed space, you’ll find that there’s an extra place for you in the Old Town’s extensive history of protection. Centuries have passed, and this ornate fortress is still here to offer you respite from whatever present invaders you might find sailing up to your shores.

Paradise Found

I was going to tell you guys about arriving in Croatia and exploring Old Town, Dubrovnik but it's all been overshadowed by today's visit to Lokrum Island, one of the greatest places of all time!

Because it's inhabited by BUNNIES. And PEACOCKS. And turtles, butterflies, and donkeys. On top of that, there are fig trees, olive groves, hidden swimming holes, and an outdoor fitness center. But mostly, bunnies. Here, there, and everywhere.

If I miss my flight home, now you know where to find me.

Lon-done

London is looking lovely as ever!

We spent less than 24 non-airport hours in the UK and we had to make the most of it. Luckily, making the most of it included walking around Westminster Abbey, the London Eye, Big Ben, and Buckingham Palace, and consuming some majorly tasty Indian food (coconut naan!). Fortunately for the bellies, our hotel came with a fitness center, so we spent our last few hours getting into all of that. I'm sure by the end of it we managed to work off about 5 bites each.

Our evening also delivered just enough Victoria Station-at-rush hour and impromptu train cancellations to fully prepare us for our next destination. On to the beach!

Post #1: How to Pack for a Month Overseas

1. Take over your entire dining room table. Ask for your roommate's forgiveness later (if she/he is a goddess/god like mine is, she/he will pretend not to be annoyed!). Eat all of your meals on the floor in fire log pose to stimulate your digestive fires and sculpt your bikini body.

*Don't put anything on your bed, you'll need it for sleeping after you spend all day putting off packing!

2. Bring enough underwear for 3.5 weeks to make up for the time your dad told you to bring only 5 pairs for a month-long study abroad trip to Argentina. Know that bidet-washed underwear is not machine-washed underwear. I spent one summer working at Victoria's Secret and can make you an instructional video on how to fold them into 5-pair bundles. 

3. Put everything on the table, take many things off the table, put (too) many things in the bag, take everything out of the bag, etc. etc. Pack your computer because you are an adult, unpack your computer because you are a light-living summer gypsy, repack your computer because you are a slave to the internet and want photosharing and Netflix in airports. Remember this is a trial and error process and all you really need is your passport, then go!